Climbing Portland (Stay
at the Aqua Hotel)
Portland is one of the
most popular centres for sports climbing in southern England.
Its coastal sea cliffs offer
over 900 routes to climbers, against a backdrop of a spectacular coastline.
Though the Portland cliffs are steep, they do not have the blocky,
overhanging structure exhibited at Swanage. The faces are smoother and more
pocketed. Some of the more demanding climbing sites are complimented by
smaller cliffs that attract the novices.
There are bolted climbs in
all grades from easy grade F3 to F8A. With climbs on both the east and west
coast of the island, it is possible, even in winter, to climb in the sun
throughout the day. The vast majority of climbs are situated well above sea
level and are therefore not affected by tides. These geologically important
cliffs also provide an important habitat for a diverse variety of plants and
animals, some of which are nationally or globally protected. Variable
restrictions for nesting birds apply some crags between March 1st and July
31st.

Climber Cafes:
One of the most recent cafes and accommodation centres targeting climbers
and activity enthusiasts is
the Aqua Hotel and Cafe situated in Castletown. This practical
cafe has indoor and outdoor seating and sports-friendly staff.
The more
traditional climber cafes on the island include The Tea Cosy and Jammie’s in
Fortuneswell and the Cove House Inn right on Chesil beach. The Sugar Loaf in
Easton is very popular with climbers while the Church Ope Cafe is a few
minutes from the Cuttings.
Further Information & Contacts
Detailed information about the climbs and
restrictions are
available in Dorset, By Pete Oxley, Rock Fax
Publications, ISBN 18-733-416-52, Price £16.99. Also Swanage and Portland Climbers
Club Guide by Nigel Coe, ISBN 0-901-601-56-X, Price £15.95.
You may also get a copy of "Portland – Information for Climbers"
produced by Dorset Countryside Service and Weymouth & Portland Borough Council
is available from the Portland Island Ranger,
Tel: 01305 251507.
Resource:
Weymouth & Portland Borough Council -
A Brief Guide to Climbing in Portland
Portland Geology:
An excellent source of information to the climbs and geology
of Portland with a regional breakdown, charts and formation information
can be found at the web site of
Southampton University .
British Mountaineering Council. Tel: 0161 445
4747.
Local Area Representatives:
For Portland – Neal Heanes Tel: 01305 823100.
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